[NOTE:
I have limited internet access in Japan, so these reports will be
very far behind the reality. This was published in Tokyo at the end
of my trip... after: Osaka, Kyoto, Nagoya, Odawara, Nagano and
Kusatsu. The best way to contact me remains through facebook. I
write this blog from Niigata, on the Japan Sea Coast. About three
weeks after the fact]
ENTRY
NUMBER 3: Osaka DAY TWO
Anything
that can go wrong WILL go wrong, --Murphy's Laws
Even
if nothing can go wrong, it STILL will go wrong. --Board's
Law
Osaka
has a population of about 9 million people... bigger than New York,
but only number 2 in Japan. Japan's Second City, is
a sister city to Chicago, America's THIRD city.
We
left off last time in Osaka... at the “office” of Screaming
Mad George... actually an apartment with a bunch of stuff
in it-- much of it mine. It's in the heart of the Osaka action
area... on the fourth floor above a sushi bar.
I
had a hotel reservation, but canceled it thanks to George's fine
offer of his place. It's my accommodation in Osaka... a private
apartment... my own place... free to wake up when I want and do that
thing that boys do to help sleep at night-- if I can get my computer
to connect to George's wifi.
My
computer, that's the problem. Gone... vanished like a date when she
finds out “everything.”
I
had it in Korea... when I went to the fake “Internet Cafe.” Have
I seen it since? I don't think so. I must have left it in the
airport... gone.... Wait a minute! I used it in the hotel... where I
canceled my reservation. I remember looking at it there...
“George!”
I say, “Remember when I looked for an address on the Internet... in
the canceled hotel?”
He
nods.
“I
think THAT'S where I left my computer,” I say. “Could you call
them and ask-- in Japanese-- if it's still there?”
Interrupting
some internet research of his own, George calls. In any other other
country in the world that computer would be on eBay by now. But, this
is Japan.
“They
have it,” George tells me, still holding the phone.“They want to
know what time you'll come by and pick it up.”
“Tell
them the early afternoon, tomorrow,” I say. “I don't do mornings.
“Around
3?” he asks... sooo Japanese.
“Sure,”
I say.
That
settled, it's good night. George leaves. I plan to meet him, Yoshii
and Junshuu early tomorrow. George has to teach (film, make-up
techniques and other stuff... at the city art college... a quite
famous school that his daughter has just started attending.
Daughter??? attending??? Ouch!)
George
meets me early and we go out for coffee and breakfast. On the way
back to the apartment, I hear a voice behind me.
It's
a shout, that sounds like “Mykel!”
So
many things in Japanese sound like “Mykel” (For example, a
geisha-in-training is called MAI-KO) I ignore the illusion of my
name. Then I hear it again. Okay, who do I owe money to here-- and
how did they find me?
It's
Yoshii and Junshuu, just out of the train. I introduce everybody.
“You
don't look as scary in person as I imagined,” Yoshii tells George.
George
laughs.
We
go to an Osaka walking street and ask a passer-by to take a picture.
No fukin' selfie fuckin' sticks for me! Part of the fun of
picture-taking is the social intercourse involved in asking someone
to shoot the snapshot. A fan of all kinds of intercourse, I ask
George to ask some stranger to take our picture.
Can
you say motley crew? (NOT Motley Crüe)... something like fellow passengers on Noah's ark.
Soon
after George goes to work. Junshuu and Yoshii have plans for me... a
museum with a Buson
collection.
A trip to the SKYWALK
BUILDING, and a bunch of other exciting and Osakan things to do.
“Great,”
I say. “But I need your help with a few things first. It shouldn't
take much time.”
“Mochiron,”
says Junshuu, “Nihongo hanashimo ii desuka?”
“You're
kidding,” I say.
He
laughs and we switch to English.
(Proud
note: today, in Niigata, I've been speaking Japanese 90% of the time.
No choice, though-- and it won't last.)
“I
need to get a SIM card for my mobile hotspot,” “I tell them. “I
also need to ask my cellphone company how to use the fuckin' phone,
get a charger for my old cellphone. It has all my phone numbers...
and then we've got to pick up my computer.”
“Where
is your computer?” asks Yoshii.
“It's
at the STEP INN, in shin-Osaka,” I say. “I left it there last
night. Chotto
baka-na.”
“Shin-Osaka
is pretty fuckin' far,” says Yoshii.
“Your
English had improved,” I tell him. “And you're right.
First
stop: BIC CAMERA... which-- since 1989-- I thought was BIG GAMERA.
We
can take care of most of the electronic needs here. A charger for my
phone, a last decade Motorola flip phone... no problem. Yeah, right.
Yoshii
asks a saleslady... one of those uniformed girls in every department
store... trained to speak in a Mickey Mouse voice. She refers us to a
male expert, about 20 years old... probably a college part-timer,
earning extra yen on the side.
Yoshii
and Junshuu explain the problem and we go to the electrical charger
section. I'll translate:
“How
'bout this one?” says the sales guy picking up a charger. We look
at the phone... no go.
“And
this?”
Nope.
“How
'bout this one?”
It
looks good. They discuss it in Japanese, I don't understand anything
except CHOW CHOW, which is Osakan for WRONG!
The
guy gives up with a shrug. We go to another store. And another. And a
fourth. Finally one of the salesmen suggests getting a battery
charger, instead of a power cord... In other words, take the battery
out of the phone and charge it separately.
Good
idea!
My
phone battery fits none of the chargers.
Time
passes.
We
return to Bic Camera.
We
find the same guy who helped us the first time. Explain the new
solution... BANG! He's there with a multi-battery charger that'll fit
my camera battery as well as the cellphone battery... and anything
else with a flat battery that has some gold squares on the side. DEED
DONE!
Then
it's the PORTABLE HOTSPOT. That should be easy. T-Mobile sent me the
unlock code so all we need is a new chip and BANG... we're set. Yeah
right.
“We'll
sell you a chip,” says the salesman in the phone department. “But
it probably won't work. There are no refunds.”
I
don't think so.
We
go somewhere else.
Nope.
A
third place
CHOW
CHOW
Time
passes.
We
try another place.
And
another.
Finally
we find a place nice enough to let us try a sample SIM to check the
UNLOCK directions... it doesn't work.
“Fuck
it!” I say, “I'll connect when I can. Let's go get the computer.
By
now, it's around 4PM. We planned to pick up the computer by 3. After
the subway to Shi-Osaka, we spend a half hour looking for STEP INN.
No
luck.
“I
have an idea,” I say.
I
can see that Uh-oh look crossing their faces.
“We
know that the hotel is near the station,” I continue, pretending
not to notice their concern.
“Why
don't we start here and just walk in ever increasing circles...
uzumaki.. That way we can't miss it.”
They
look at each other, telepathing Is he serious? in Japanese.
I
start spiraling from my place in the station. Yoshii grabs the back
of my shirt collar and pushes me toward the door. I feel like I'm
reliving my lesbian bar adventures.
We
walk out of the station. Stop in a FAMILY MART convenience store and
find the hotel around the corner. My computer is ready and waiting
for me.
“Okay,”
I say. “Time for Buson.”
“Sorry
Mykel,” says Yoshii. “It's too late for Buson. He's closed.
Besides, we have a date for the first Drink Club Osaka... in ….....”
I couldn't understand what he said. But we were off again. Back into
the subway. Off to someplace... a row of sky scrapers.
We
pass an incredible looking building. Tall with a giant hole through
the top, like a HELLO KITTY eye-- on heroin..
Through the building top you can see a network of crossed staircases, random beams... metal bars... Blade Runner style.
Through the building top you can see a network of crossed staircases, random beams... metal bars... Blade Runner style.
“Wow,”
I say, “what is that? It's incredible.”
“It's
Skywalk,” says
Yoshii. “Foreigners
love this building,”
“You
don't like it?” I ask.
He
laughs.
“No,
I mean it's popular... with everybody... like the Empire State
Building... only more modern. It's a tourist attraction.”
“Let's
go,” I say... pointing up. “We CAN go, can't we?”
He
shrugs, smiles, and we go in. Each of us pays 1500Y for the privilege
of taking an elevator to the top.
Most
of my pictures of the building, as well as the views from there, you
can see by clicking on the image below. We're there for sunset, which
is a great slight from so high up in Osaka.
Skywalk Building Osaka |
Since
Double Entendre is my
middle name, I'm especially impressed by the sign at the END of the
Skywalker Skytour. Sounds like the end of many of my late night
adventures:
I
didn't try to explain the double entendre to my hosts, but lo and
behind... I don't need to. There's another sign... in the building...
right after this one and before the elevator...
But
if it's really a place of love... you'd be able to enter again...
that's what I think.
From
the Skywalk tour we go to the basement for Okonomiyaki.
Ah, Osaka without okonomiyaki would be like a beer binge without the
morning beershit... just not complete!
Yeah,
it's the real stuff... it MOVES when you eat it. Many of my favorite
things to put in my mouth MOVE when they get there.
Here's
a short video of the okonomiyaki. Watch it move.
Then
to the city center, to be photographed with GLICA!! He's the town
superhero who NO ONE is allowed to leave without being photographed
with.
Ah,
after a day half wasted with stupid electronics. The rest spent with
great friends, with great plans for me... foiled by electronics and
(my) stupidity. Redeemed by a skywalk... okonomiyaki... and the same
great company.
All
quite moving on day two in Japan.
--to
be continued
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